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By lori, June 9, 2010 8:06 pm

Stephansdom in Vienna

When the summer months arrive in the northern hemisphere, my thoughts go to Vienna. It was a place that I had never thought much about visiting, but outside circumstances took me there a few years ago. Shortly after I arrived, as I slowly crept up that long escalator and the view of the majestic and ominous Stephansdom came into view, I realized it is possible to fall in love with a city.

My trip to Vienna presented a lot of firsts in travel for me. Perhaps that is why it holds such a special place in my heart. Aside from a trip to the Caribbean, it was my first international trip and my first trip to Europe. The city was also the host of my first adventure as a solo traveler. Well, sort of.

My flight to Vienna was my first international flight alone. Funny how at that moment I had no idea how many of those were ahead of me going back and forth to Brazil. I was headed there because my husband was taking part in a three week study abroad program for his MBA. We explored the city center some over that initial weekend, but the rest of the week I spent my days walking the streets, shopping and exploring museums alone, and my evenings with my husband and his classmates. It was at this point I realized that traveling alone is just as invigorating and exciting as traveling with someone you love.

Campus of the University of Vienna

While it may seem that I liked Vienna so much because it launched me onto this journey of a travel-lover, there is much more to it. Vienna is an incredible city – the food, the drink, museums, Mozart, summer festivals, outdoor markets, public transportation – there are too many wonderful things to mention them all.

My husband and I like it so much that we can hardly bear to go to Europe without a stop in Vienna. We have returned since that first trip in 2006 and will likely be there again next summer. If we have our way, it is one of two locations in this world where we would gladly take a second home.

So now, let me get to the point. Keeping with the format of the Antigua post from a few months ago, here are a few reasons why you should get yourself to Vienna and what to do once you are there.

Why is Vienna different?

I’ve tried multiple times to put this into words and this is what I have come up with. Vienna has multiple tourist attractions yet the way the city is designed I never felt overwhelmed with tourists as I visited them. You feel as though you are part of the culture when you are there. A strong contrast to cities such as Prague, which I enjoyed, but felt completely claustrophobic. Vienna is fabulously designed with bike and walking lanes and incredible public transportation.

Why summer in Vienna?

The Film Festival auf dem Wiener Rathausplatz. The Film Festival at the Vienna Town Hall Square is an event from July to early September where films are shown on a large screen mounted on the Rathaus. Throughout the square are vendors selling foods that represent a variety of international cuisines – German, Brazilian, Italian, Indian – as well as local beer and also wine. Yes, it gets crowded, but you can grab your food and go sit in the park nearby. You don’t even have to watch the film to enjoy this festival. Tip: Take a few spare euros with you for the bathrooms which are located to the left of the Rathaus. Be sure to give them to the attendant and don’t drop them in the money bowl. Yes, I was reprimanded for doing so.

Film Festival screen and viewing area

Film Festival food area

Where to hang out?

One of our all-time favorite restaurants is the Schweizerhaus. It’s not exactly a secret, but I would consider it a hidden gem, mainly because you will take an adventurous walk through Prater (an amusement park/fair) to find it. The beer garden is typically open March through October. Get there early because once the huge groups of people find their table and park it, they are there to drink for the night.

Entrance to beer garden and restaurant

Beers are poured like this all night long.

A healthy dose of Budvar.

Pork Knuckle, specialty of the house!

What to eat?

There are actually three very specific things we are sure to fit in during a trip to Vienna. The first is a Döner Kebab, the Turkish sandwich with chicken or lamb, tomato, onion, yogurt sauce and don’t forget to add hot sauce or the red pepper. We get them outside the U-bahn stations, specifically at Westbahnhof, or at the Naschmarkt.

The second is the Mozart Croissant from Anker Bakery. It’s a croissant filled with marzipan. In fact, anything you come across that is Mozart means it has marzipan. I believe this has something to do with it being one of his favorite sweets. You can find Anker everywhere in Vienna, on all major shopping streets and in most U-bahn stations.

Last Mozart Croissant of the trip, on the train to Prague.

The third is a any kind of bratwurst or sausage in general. How in the world the US came up with that crappy canned version or even the fat and short versions at cookouts, I have no idea. Real Vienna sausages are nothing like them and one of my favorite foods.

What to drink?

If you are at the Schweizerhaus, try a Radler. But be sure to order it with the strong German emphasis – RAD-LAH!! It is beer, usually Budvar with a lemon soda. Sweet and refreshing, and yes, maybe a little girly.

Otherwise go for Ottakringer which is brewed in the city. If you have the time, go take a brewery tour and enjoy plenty of free samples. One that I especially like is the Ottakringer Kirsch bier which you can get at the Ottakringer booth at the film festival. It is a tasty beer with a mild cherry flavor.

Ottakringer booth at the film festival.

What is the one must-see attraction?

This one is easy for me, Schönbrunn Palace. Gorgeous landscaping and an incredible view if you are willing to take a little hike. The zoo on the grounds is nice as well.

Gardens around the palace.

What you won’t need?

A taxi. Vienna has the best public transportation system I have encountered to date. The U-bahn and the S-bahn, although we didn’t use the S-bahn much, makes it so easy to get around. Remember that this was my very first solo travel experience. If I could handle it, you will have no problem at all.

Best unexpected experience?

Visit a heuriger, a wine-tavern. It will take a U-bahn ride and likely another trip on the bus, but it is worth it to get out of the center of the city and see more residential areas. You will be surrounded by gorgeous vineyards as you sit at picnic tables and drink local wine and wine spritzers to your heart’s content.  We went to The Wolff Buschenschank heuringer on our first trip. It was gorgeous, but there are plenty of others as well. Tip: Learn the words for German foods. We knew a handful of phrases before going, but nothing that helped us order food once we got out to the heuringer.

Streets outside the heuriger.

Outdoor eating area inside the heuriger.

After writing this I realize I probably will need a part II on Vienna. Once I finally make it there for the Christmas markets there will surely be a part III!

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By lori, April 27, 2010 3:11 pm

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice

I’ve put off writing this post for a while. Looking back I think it was because I knew once I finished it, I’d be sitting at my computer, one click away from buying a plane ticket back to Singapore. For a city that had us feeling disoriented and mildly disappointed upon arrival, the transformation we underwent in four days was amazing. Our time in Singapore quickly became a visit we wished would never end.

Yes, I did say mildly disappointed. I’m not sure what I expected of Singapore. Now that I think about it I’m pretty sure it was that I wanted the food hawkers handed to me without much work on my part to find them. That was nowhere near the case. As it turns out, though, our adventures in finding them are some of the best memories we have of our time there.

I’ve eaten at busy churrascarias on a Sunday afternoon in Brazil. I’ve shuffled sideways through the tourist filled streets of Prague and a few days before this trip I drug a suitcase through a crowded street market in Hong Kong. Yet, nothing prepared me for the experience that is the hawker in Singapore.

There were bright lights, pictures of foods both familiar and unidentifiable, writing I couldn’t pronounce even if I tried, vendors asking what we were looking for and long lines snaking through the seating area as diners waited to order their food. It was unlike any dining atmosphere I’ve encountered and it was incredible.

Maxwell Food Center

Yes, I often had to take a seat just to get my bearings and soak it all in, but I would go back and wait patiently in a line the length of the building at a hawker in Singapore in a heartbeat. However, when that time comes, there are a few things I learned from this first visit that I will be sure to take into consideration when planning next.

Get yourself a guide. Our first stop was a bookstore in a mall near Boat Quay. I’m sure there are lots of guides that can help you navigate the foods of Singapore, but I wanted this one – Makansutra Singapore 2009. This guide didn’t provide maps so we did have to reference those when looking for the hawker centers, but this guide rates the best dishes from the best hawkers and tells you in what area of town to find them. In addition, there are wonderful descriptions of hundreds of dishes which is helpful when wanting to know exactly what you are eating and for writing posts and articles like, well, this one.

Don’t expect it to be easy. I have to say I’m pretty proud of us for uncovering the locations of the some of the hawkers we sought out. My most vivid memory is the night we searched for the Soup Tulang at the Golden Mile Food Center located on Beach Road. It took a long metro ride, combined with getting lost at night, asking a kind woman for directions, then walking a few blocks until we could smell the food cooking. Be prepared to spend some time traveling to the best hawkers and don’t be afraid to ask for directions.

Plan to be overwhelmed. The lights and people alone may require you to sit and gather your thoughts before decided what to eat and where to order it. You may walk into a hawker knowing exactly what you want to eat, and then once you see the lights, menus and lines, completely forget what you went there for. Take your time and enjoy every bite. 

Follow the No Reservations trail. Yes, we did, and do this quite often in our travels. If we hadn’t then we never would have known to look for the Maxwell Food Center on Maxwell Road to try the Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice or the Soup Tulang from Hajir Kadir from the Golden Mile Food Center. It doesn’t have to be a specific guide or show you follow, but the advice of others, even that from national television, can help you discover some delicious food.

Hainanese Chicken Rice from Tian Tian in Maxwell Food Center

Soup Tulang from Haji Kadir at Golden Mile Food Center

But also make your own path. If we hadn’t set off to discover some foods on our own, or simply walked up to some vendors and ordered what looked good, we would have missed out on a lot. This would have included Mee Chiang Kueh (a sweet dough with fillings such as peanut or grated coconut), Roti John (a Panini-like sandwich with eggs and onion), Wonton Mee (egg noodles with pork and filled dumplings), and Chai Tow Kueh or Carrot Cake (white radishes in a rice flour batter with egg, garlic and other veggies).

Carrot cake has no carrots. A mixture of white radish with a rice batter. One of our favorites.

Wonton Mee with pork and plenty of chili sauce and hot peppers.

Forget the numbers. I read a lot of numbers prior to our trip that were supposed to tell me the location of a vendor within a hawker. About the only place this helped was at the frequently visited Lau Pa Sat. Otherwise, I never even saw the numbers on the vendor’s booths. They are difficult to find. Use this method if you choose, but we found it much easier to follow the lines if it is a popular place you are looking for. Otherwise, know what the food looks like or the name and give a random vendor a shot.

Know the schedules. While the numbers didn’t help us, hours of operation did. This is where a book like the Makansutra guide comes in handy. Some hawkers like the Maxwell Food Center cater more to the lunch crowd while you can get some foods at other hawkers like the one in Chinatown until late at night. Vendors also have different closing days and they can be random such as Tuesdays twice a month. If you have your heart set on trying a food find out the location and schedule of the specific vendor so you don’t miss out during your visit.

Ah Boling - Glutinous rice balls with fillings such as peanut, red bean paste or yam. We passed on the Durian.

Mee Chiang Kueh. Almost sold out when we returned after lunch so we only tried to coconut and peanut.

The articles, television shows and travel blogs don’t lie. Singapore is a food paradise. We enjoyed some of the most outstanding food we’ve ever had the opportunity to try. And it’s not just the food, but the experience surrounding it. Long lines, dumplings being rolled, oil splashing out of hot woks, food slapped quickly on a plate cooked to perfection – there is simply nothing like Singapore.

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By lori, March 17, 2010 2:45 pm

A Wordless Wednesday tribute to all things Ireland!

Dun Laoghaire

Cliff Walk, Howth

Howth

Bray

Dublin

Trinity College, Dublin

St. Stephen's Green, Dublin

Dalkey Island

Kilfenora

Burren, County Clare

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher

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By lori, January 6, 2010 12:00 am

When we first arrived on the island of Antigua I wasn’t sure I was going to like it. This wasn’t because of a lack of sunshine or the smell of sea water in the air. Both were readily available. It wasn’t even due to the incredibly long line for immigration in which we waited about an hour. (They pumped air conditioning through the room so I couldn’t complain.)

What was it then?

As vague as this may seem I just didn’t get that hit-you-in-the-face, “this is Antigua!” feeling when we got there. Now that we’ve also been to Jamaica and St. Lucia, I couldn’t help but notice the lack of this pride and identity as my mind was assembling my very first impression.

On the drive to our resort I found myself wondering where the beautiful hillsides and mountains were. Not to mention wondering why our driver didn’t tell us one single thing about the island, something we’ve come to expect on our Caribbean vacations.

Despite all this, I wasn’t ready to give up on the little island just yet. I knew there was something special it had to offer that I was obviously missing.

As has become our rule for traveling to the islands, regardless of what hotel, house or resort you choose to stay at, get off it. Get out and explore, find something local, see and experience something not given to you by a trained service staff. We took our own advice, and we hired a local driver for a day.

Big Roger of Roger Taxi & Tours

Roger, from Roger’s Taxi & Tours, took us on the Then & Now Tour. We were given the opportunity to see the entire island in six hours (it’s only about 14 miles x 11 miles). In addition we got lessons in history, immersion into some of the local culture and the evidence that I had, in fact, been missing something special about Antigua.

 Yes, I know you can rent your own car. That is if you are familiar with, or brave enough, to drive on the left hand side of the road. That is one thing we haven’t chosen to tackle yet. And yes you can read all kinds of guide books that tell you about the island.

However, what you can’t get with these two options above is a friendly, welcoming Antiguan who has so many brothers and sisters on the island that he honked at one in almost every area we visited. You won’t get his brain either which is filled with more knowledge than you could ever find in a guide book.

My point? We are very happy with our decision to hire Roger for the day.

So what makes Antigua so special now that I’ve seen it through the eyes of a local? Do a few of these things on your visit and you will fully understand what changed my mind.

What to eat? Ducana and Caribbean rock lobster.

Ducana, salt fish and chop-up from Caribbean Taste

Ducana is a local dish of grated sweet potato, coconut, flour, sugar and spices which is wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. It’s like a tropical quick bread/ dumpling. Mine was served with salted cod in a red sauce and chop-up, a veggie combo with spinach.  We ate it at Caribbean Taste near English Harbour.

The local lunch menu at Caribbean Taste

Barbuda, the second half of the country known as Antigua and Barbuda, is a prime spot for Caribbean rock lobsters. These were much larger and more flavorful than any we’ve had in the Caribbean prior to this visit. There is nothing that can beat them grilled with butter and lime.

Grilled Caribbean Rock Lobster from Barefoot by the Sea, Sandals Grande Antiguan resort

What to drink? Wadadli.

The local pale lager is excellent. I’d highly suggest getting your fill while you are there. Wadadli was also the Amerindian word for the island of Antigua.

Which beach to see? Fryes Beach.

We saw many during our tour of the island, but my favorite was established early in the day. Fryes beach is located on the west coast of the island. Of course, the Caribbean is full of white sandy beaches and blue waters, but there was something about this place that took my breath away.

Fryes Beach, Antigua

Fryes Beach, Antigua

We were told that many trees lined the beach at one time, but a hurricane took them all down leaving them buried in the sand. Other storms have then passed and occasionally once buried driftwood will emerge only adding to the already beautiful scenery.

Which view to look for? Sleeping Indian.

You can see this from a different perspective at just about every point on the island. We saw it when out driving, but realized that the best view was from our hotel room on Dickenson Bay. The hills and valleys come together to look just like a sleeping person and is known locally as the Sleeping Indian.

View of the Sleeping Indian

What attraction is most worth a visit? Devil’s Bridge

If you see one thing in Antigua, this is my number one recommendation. This natural bridge truly shows you the power of the sea. While amazing to view, the entire atmosphere is incredibly somber as this is a place where many have committed suicide. The whole scene creates a sense of awe and appreciation as well as thoughtfulness for the souls that were lost in that spot.

Devil's Bridge, Antigua

The sea and coast near Devil's Bridge

 

 

 

What tropical fruits you are likely to see? I lost count after 15.

Having lived in Brazil, we are fortunate to have seen and tasted a number of tropical fruits. However, I’m not sure I’ve seen so many different kinds in one small area. We saw everything from custard apples to pomegranates to pomelo to mango to cashews. And don’t forget the Antiguan Black Pineapple. It will be the sweetest pineapple to ever touch your taste buds.

Custard apple tree near Caribbean Taste restaurant

Antiguan Black Pineapple at a roadside stand

 

 

 

What fun history fact to remember? Well protected from attack.

Antigua is considered the gateway to the Caribbean. Because of all the little inlets and coves it was fairly easy for the British to protect the island from French attack. Therefore, Antigua didn’t change hands like other island such as St. Lucia which went back and forth between French and British control.

View of English Harbour from Shirley Heights

Which animals you might encounter? Mongoose, sheep, goats and donkeys.

The mongoose was brought over from India to kill all the snakes on the island. I find that so incredible. Tropical island, no snakes at all. We did get the chance to see one (safely from the van), but were warned we would never want to have an actual encounter.

Mongoose from a distance (he's right in the center of the photo)

Sheep and goats roam the island eating at their leisure. You’ll find them resting on rocks and hills and likely trying to cross the road in herds. The donkeys, however, were much more interesting. I’m not quite sure I’ve ever seen a donkey on a rocky cliff next to the sea. These also happened to be the beautiful Bethlehem Donkeys with the signature cross along their back. It only added to my excitement that we were able to see a babe with its mama.

Donkey with baby grazing near Devil's Bridge

What not to overlook? The Antiguan flag.

The blue and white colors along with the sun represent the sea, sand and sunshine of the island. The black represents the African ancestry and the “v” shape represents victory, while the red stands for the energy of the people.

Resources to plan your trip:

Antigua and Barbuda Department of Tourism

Roger’s Taxi & Tours

268-764-6331

rogertaxitours (at) gmail (dot) com

Caribbean Taste

Behind Dockyard Drive

English Harbour

268-562-3049

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By lori, December 11, 2009 1:02 am

Katie of the travel blog Tripbase has started what will prove to be a productive game of blog tag. She is challenging us travel bloggers to create a list of our three best kept travel secrets. Once the lists are completed, a Creative Commons document will be compiled with all kinds of travel secrets. There is quite a list of experienced travelers that have been tagged so stay tuned. I’ll be sure to share the scoop when it’s done.

I was tagged by one of my favorite foodie travel blogs The Road Forks. Akila originally tagged my food blog Fake Food Free where I do talk about travel, but I think this post is a better fit right here at The 3 Star Traveler. It is about time I get things rolling!

My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets

Ilha do Mel, Paraná, Brasil

Map of Ilha do Mel

When visiting Brazil, head south my friend. Past Recife, Bahia, Rio and Sao Paulo, all the way to the southern state of Paraná. Brazil is an incredibly diverse country; much more than I ever knew before living there the past two years. The south may lack the popular beaches and blue waters of the north, but it makes up for it in rich, diverse culture, amazing food and natural paradise.

Ilha do Mel (island of honey) is located about a 2.5 hour drive and 30 minute boat ride east of the capital city of Curitiba. An island free of motorized vehicles, this natural wonderland is by far one of the best kept secrets of the locals who live in the area. Beaches around the island are separated with rocks and vegetation just screaming to be hiked and climbed. I did just that on my 30^th birthday last year.

Beaches and trails on Ilha do Mel

There are plenty of beaches to relax on, but the island also has landmarks to visit such as a lighthouse, fort and ecological reserve if you choose to do a little hiking during your visit. When you get hungry stop at Toca do Abutre near Braslíia. Enjoy the view while you snack on camarão frito (fried shrimp), casquinha de siri (stuffed crab) and ice cold cerveja. Plan ahead if you travel there during the South American summer especially around Carnival time as there is a daily limit for the number of persons who can visit and stay on the island.

Patara Elephant Farm Chiang Mai, Thailand

One of the elephants we worked with during our visit.

Thailand is not without plenty of tours that involve elephants, but none of them are like what you will encounter when visiting the Patara Elephant Farm. Let’s just say you will be doing a bit more than patting them on the trunk and your ride won’t involve one of those saddles that look like it was pulled straight from the circus. 

 The farm’s web-site states, “Yes, we are different!” and that could not be more accurate. This Thai owned and managed farm focuses on health-care and breeding management to ensure that the Asian elephant does not become extinct. They act as a rescue organization as well, taking in those elephants that have been mistreated through their use as a tourist attraction on the streets of Thailand. The funds generated from visitors help keep the farm up and running. 

Scrubbing the tusks of my elephant, Boonpak

If you take advantage of the Elephant Owner for a Day program be ready to work. Your day will begin in the middle of a gorgeous rice paddy where you will hear a story about the importance of the elephant in Thailand and just how shockingly close this creature is to extinction. You’ll be assigned to a trainer who will be with you for the day and finally you get to meet your elephant.  

After feeding him or her and performing a daily health check, you’ll climb into the creek and give  the equivalent of a sponge bath. Next you are up, riding them bare back throughout the forests of northern Thailand. Up and down mountains, through clay-like mud and down primitive roadways. You’ll stop for lunch next to a creek while the elephants play in the water. Your feast will be some of the most traditional and authentic Thai foods you will likely have on your entire trip. Next you too can swim with your elephant and then you will be back up for a ride making your way to the farm.  

Elephants playing in the water during our lunch break

Our picnic lunch

The tour lasts an entire day from about 7:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. and is truly a life changing experience. I would, however, recommend a few things.  Do a couple weeks of core strengthening workouts to help your back during the ride (I’m really not kidding), wear bug spray and stay hydrated, but don’t drink too much as potty breaks are few and far between.

Experience Bali on the Morning Journey in Ubud

Many people go to Bali for the beaches, but having had plenty of beach on our Southeast Asia trip we chose to spend three nights in the arts and cultural center of Ubud. Yes, the center of the city is still highly touristy, but if you want to get a sneak peak of real life there make your way over to Tegal Sari and sign up for the Morning Journey. You can participate even if you aren’t staying at the hotel.

Inside the local art school, also a home compound

A mere 15 USD per person will enlighten you and inform you regarding the Balinese culture more than you ever thought possible. A local guide will take you to a village outside Ubud where you will visit many housing compounds including a local art school. There your new view of this amazing place will begin to form as you learn about the Hindu religion, cultural practices and local foods.

Speaking of local foods the second half of the experience involves a rather rugged hike through the rice terraces and forest. You’ll learn about rice production, identify fruit trees and may even get lucky enough to have a local farmer climb a massive palm tree barefoot to cut you a coconut for a mid-afternoon refreshment.

Rice terraces

Local farmer climbing for a coconut

The day lasts from about 9:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. and you’ll finish up with a lunch provided by the hotel. You’ll leave wishing you had a few more days to spend with these wonderful people learning more intimate things about their intriguing culture.

Now I have to tag five other travel bloggers (which also happen to be five of my favorite reads) to share their 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets.

On the Fringe - The life of Global Gal in China with notes of ex-pat experiences and travel adventures.

Rubber Slippers in Italy – The ex-pat stories and travel tales of Rowena from Hawaii as she takes on all Italy has to offer.

Chez Loulou – Entertaining stories, beautiful photos and a taste of life in the south of France from a U.S ex-pat perspective.

Gastroanthropology – The social science of food along with tales of travel and cooking from a U.S. ex-pat living in London.

Kyle Hepp (Just Married Chilean Style) - Beautiful photos and straight forward stories from a U.S. ex-pat living in Chile turned world traveler.