Stephansdom in Vienna

When the summer months arrive in the northern hemisphere, my thoughts go to Vienna. It was a place that I had never thought much about visiting, but outside circumstances took me there a few years ago. Shortly after I arrived, as I slowly crept up that long escalator and the view of the majestic and ominous Stephansdom came into view, I realized it is possible to fall in love with a city.

My trip to Vienna presented a lot of firsts in travel for me. Perhaps that is why it holds such a special place in my heart. Aside from a trip to the Caribbean, it was my first international trip and my first trip to Europe. The city was also the host of my first adventure as a solo traveler. Well, sort of.

My flight to Vienna was my first international flight alone. Funny how at that moment I had no idea how many of those were ahead of me going back and forth to Brazil. I was headed there because my husband was taking part in a three week study abroad program for his MBA. We explored the city center some over that initial weekend, but the rest of the week I spent my days walking the streets, shopping and exploring museums alone, and my evenings with my husband and his classmates. It was at this point I realized that traveling alone is just as invigorating and exciting as traveling with someone you love.

Campus of the University of Vienna

While it may seem that I liked Vienna so much because it launched me onto this journey of a travel-lover, there is much more to it. Vienna is an incredible city – the food, the drink, museums, Mozart, summer festivals, outdoor markets, public transportation – there are too many wonderful things to mention them all.

My husband and I like it so much that we can hardly bear to go to Europe without a stop in Vienna. We have returned since that first trip in 2006 and will likely be there again next summer. If we have our way, it is one of two locations in this world where we would gladly take a second home.

So now, let me get to the point. Keeping with the format of the Antigua post from a few months ago, here are a few reasons why you should get yourself to Vienna and what to do once you are there.

Why is Vienna different?

I’ve tried multiple times to put this into words and this is what I have come up with. Vienna has multiple tourist attractions yet the way the city is designed I never felt overwhelmed with tourists as I visited them. You feel as though you are part of the culture when you are there. A strong contrast to cities such as Prague, which I enjoyed, but felt completely claustrophobic. Vienna is fabulously designed with bike and walking lanes and incredible public transportation.

Why summer in Vienna?

The Film Festival auf dem Wiener Rathausplatz. The Film Festival at the Vienna Town Hall Square is an event from July to early September where films are shown on a large screen mounted on the Rathaus. Throughout the square are vendors selling foods that represent a variety of international cuisines – German, Brazilian, Italian, Indian – as well as local beer and also wine. Yes, it gets crowded, but you can grab your food and go sit in the park nearby. You don’t even have to watch the film to enjoy this festival. Tip: Take a few spare euros with you for the bathrooms which are located to the left of the Rathaus. Be sure to give them to the attendant and don’t drop them in the money bowl. Yes, I was reprimanded for doing so.

Film Festival screen and viewing area

Film Festival food area

Where to hang out?

One of our all-time favorite restaurants is the Schweizerhaus. It’s not exactly a secret, but I would consider it a hidden gem, mainly because you will take an adventurous walk through Prater (an amusement park/fair) to find it. The beer garden is typically open March through October. Get there early because once the huge groups of people find their table and park it, they are there to drink for the night.

Entrance to beer garden and restaurant

Beers are poured like this all night long.

A healthy dose of Budvar.

Pork Knuckle, specialty of the house!

What to eat?

There are actually three very specific things we are sure to fit in during a trip to Vienna. The first is a Döner Kebab, the Turkish sandwich with chicken or lamb, tomato, onion, yogurt sauce and don’t forget to add hot sauce or the red pepper. We get them outside the U-bahn stations, specifically at Westbahnhof, or at the Naschmarkt.

The second is the Mozart Croissant from Anker Bakery. It’s a croissant filled with marzipan. In fact, anything you come across that is Mozart means it has marzipan. I believe this has something to do with it being one of his favorite sweets. You can find Anker everywhere in Vienna, on all major shopping streets and in most U-bahn stations.

Last Mozart Croissant of the trip, on the train to Prague.

The third is a any kind of bratwurst or sausage in general. How in the world the US came up with that crappy canned version or even the fat and short versions at cookouts, I have no idea. Real Vienna sausages are nothing like them and one of my favorite foods.

What to drink?

If you are at the Schweizerhaus, try a Radler. But be sure to order it with the strong German emphasis – RAD-LAH!! It is beer, usually Budvar with a lemon soda. Sweet and refreshing, and yes, maybe a little girly.

Otherwise go for Ottakringer which is brewed in the city. If you have the time, go take a brewery tour and enjoy plenty of free samples. One that I especially like is the Ottakringer Kirsch bier which you can get at the Ottakringer booth at the film festival. It is a tasty beer with a mild cherry flavor.

Ottakringer booth at the film festival.

What is the one must-see attraction?

This one is easy for me, Schönbrunn Palace. Gorgeous landscaping and an incredible view if you are willing to take a little hike. The zoo on the grounds is nice as well.

Gardens around the palace.

What you won’t need?

A taxi. Vienna has the best public transportation system I have encountered to date. The U-bahn and the S-bahn, although we didn’t use the S-bahn much, makes it so easy to get around. Remember that this was my very first solo travel experience. If I could handle it, you will have no problem at all.

Best unexpected experience?

Visit a heuriger, a wine-tavern. It will take a U-bahn ride and likely another trip on the bus, but it is worth it to get out of the center of the city and see more residential areas. You will be surrounded by gorgeous vineyards as you sit at picnic tables and drink local wine and wine spritzers to your heart’s content.  We went to The Wolff Buschenschank heuringer on our first trip. It was gorgeous, but there are plenty of others as well. Tip: Learn the words for German foods. We knew a handful of phrases before going, but nothing that helped us order food once we got out to the heuringer.

Streets outside the heuriger.

Outdoor eating area inside the heuriger.

After writing this I realize I probably will need a part II on Vienna. Once I finally make it there for the Christmas markets there will surely be a part III!

Bowrington Road Market in Hong Kong

The one travel tip you hear time and time again is that if you want to know what to do, what to see and where to eat, ask a local. This advice makes complete sense. A person living in the area or who grew up there will be full of helpful information. As travelers they are our link to a true, cultural experience.

I completely agree with locals being your best travel resource and put this tip into practice often. However, I also suggest taking it a step further. The specific local you ask will have strong influence on the information you receive. There is always the chance that the advice you get won’t be helpful at all.

Why do I feel this way? Well, during our time in Brazil I came across local advice that was sometimes helpful. Other times I realized that I knew more about where I was living than did the local I questioned.

This isn’t uncommon. When I think of my own country and consider some questions a visitor could ask me, there is a good chance I wouldn’t know the answer. Many times it is based on our personal interests and one certainly can’t know everything.

If I hadn’t done more digging and sought out those people who gave the best advice I would have missed out on a lot. Before you travel to a new location consider the following things before you take local advice and run with it.

Consider that the best local to ask may be an ex-pat. 

When we hear the phrase “ask a local” a person who grew up in the specific country you are visiting typically comes to mind. However, the most I learned about Brazilian history and culture came from expatriates living in the places I was visiting. Why? Well, they took an interest in their new land and learned intriguing pieces of information backward and forward. They also learned from locals, but they took it to the next level and were able to explain it to me in a way I understood. Perhaps this is because we shared the common desire of learning about a new place.  

Research the places you would like to go and use those suggestions as your ice breaker.

Morettes-PR, Brazil

Maybe it is a bar, a restaurant or an outdoor market. When you approach a local to ask him or her about the best places to go, tell the place you read about and ask his or her opinion. By doing so, you can determine if you are on the right track. She might tell you that the place you heard of is an ex-pat hangout and that isn’t what you are looking for. Next you can ask for a better suggestion.

Ask the person who isn’t expecting it.

The information desk personnel at the museum and the hotel concierge will be more likely to give you ideas for tourist spots. This isn’t always the case, but often. When you want to know where to go and what to see ask your waiter, the person behind the deli counter in the supermarket or the open market vendor. If they aren’t expecting your question, they will likely have only their own preferences to go on and you will get a true locals perspective.

Hire a local tour guide.

Roadside stand in Antigua

I loathe tours. I’m not saying there are of no benefit, some people prefer them. But it seems I always get stuck with a group consisting of individuals who disrespect the group and we have to wait on them to continue, or we are with the 21-questions-traveler. You know, the person who asks so many uninteresting questions that the tour guide never gets to talk freely and share interesting information. When we were in Ubud, Bali our small group tour turned into a personal tour because we were the only ones signed up. Then in Antigua we hired a local tour guide for a private drive around the island. Nothing compares to these experiences. You get the information you want from a very personal, local perspective. You may have to sacrifice something else to fit it in the travel budget, but I’ve learned it is worth every penny.

The Travel Secrets ebooks launched today! They are full of helpful tips from experienced travelers and cover just about every continent around the world. My tips for the morning journey in Ubud, Bali and the Patara Elephant Farm in Chiang Mai, Thailand were included in the Travel Tips book, and my tip about Ilha do Mel in southern Brazil is in the Worldwide Beaches book.

The ebooks are free and for each download Tripbase will donate $1 to Charity: Water, an organization that works to bring freshwater wells and clean drinking water to people in developing nations. One hundred percent of public funds donated to this organization go directly to water projects.

I’m thrilled to be a part of this ebook and fundraising project! Please take a moment and click on the badge below to download a Travel Secrets eBook. It costs you nothing, but a little space on your hard drive.  As a result, not only will you have an excellent travel resource at your fingertips, but you will be helping to support a great cause.

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Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice

I’ve put off writing this post for a while. Looking back I think it was because I knew once I finished it, I’d be sitting at my computer, one click away from buying a plane ticket back to Singapore. For a city that had us feeling disoriented and mildly disappointed upon arrival, the transformation we underwent in four days was amazing. Our time in Singapore quickly became a visit we wished would never end.

Yes, I did say mildly disappointed. I’m not sure what I expected of Singapore. Now that I think about it I’m pretty sure it was that I wanted the food hawkers handed to me without much work on my part to find them. That was nowhere near the case. As it turns out, though, our adventures in finding them are some of the best memories we have of our time there.

I’ve eaten at busy churrascarias on a Sunday afternoon in Brazil. I’ve shuffled sideways through the tourist filled streets of Prague and a few days before this trip I drug a suitcase through a crowded street market in Hong Kong. Yet, nothing prepared me for the experience that is the hawker in Singapore.

There were bright lights, pictures of foods both familiar and unidentifiable, writing I couldn’t pronounce even if I tried, vendors asking what we were looking for and long lines snaking through the seating area as diners waited to order their food. It was unlike any dining atmosphere I’ve encountered and it was incredible.

Maxwell Food Center

Yes, I often had to take a seat just to get my bearings and soak it all in, but I would go back and wait patiently in a line the length of the building at a hawker in Singapore in a heartbeat. However, when that time comes, there are a few things I learned from this first visit that I will be sure to take into consideration when planning next.

Get yourself a guide. Our first stop was a bookstore in a mall near Boat Quay. I’m sure there are lots of guides that can help you navigate the foods of Singapore, but I wanted this one – Makansutra Singapore 2009. This guide didn’t provide maps so we did have to reference those when looking for the hawker centers, but this guide rates the best dishes from the best hawkers and tells you in what area of town to find them. In addition, there are wonderful descriptions of hundreds of dishes which is helpful when wanting to know exactly what you are eating and for writing posts and articles like, well, this one.

Don’t expect it to be easy. I have to say I’m pretty proud of us for uncovering the locations of the some of the hawkers we sought out. My most vivid memory is the night we searched for the Soup Tulang at the Golden Mile Food Center located on Beach Road. It took a long metro ride, combined with getting lost at night, asking a kind woman for directions, then walking a few blocks until we could smell the food cooking. Be prepared to spend some time traveling to the best hawkers and don’t be afraid to ask for directions.

Plan to be overwhelmed. The lights and people alone may require you to sit and gather your thoughts before decided what to eat and where to order it. You may walk into a hawker knowing exactly what you want to eat, and then once you see the lights, menus and lines, completely forget what you went there for. Take your time and enjoy every bite. 

Follow the No Reservations trail. Yes, we did, and do this quite often in our travels. If we hadn’t then we never would have known to look for the Maxwell Food Center on Maxwell Road to try the Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice or the Soup Tulang from Hajir Kadir from the Golden Mile Food Center. It doesn’t have to be a specific guide or show you follow, but the advice of others, even that from national television, can help you discover some delicious food.

Hainanese Chicken Rice from Tian Tian in Maxwell Food Center

Soup Tulang from Haji Kadir at Golden Mile Food Center

But also make your own path. If we hadn’t set off to discover some foods on our own, or simply walked up to some vendors and ordered what looked good, we would have missed out on a lot. This would have included Mee Chiang Kueh (a sweet dough with fillings such as peanut or grated coconut), Roti John (a Panini-like sandwich with eggs and onion), Wonton Mee (egg noodles with pork and filled dumplings), and Chai Tow Kueh or Carrot Cake (white radishes in a rice flour batter with egg, garlic and other veggies).

Carrot cake has no carrots. A mixture of white radish with a rice batter. One of our favorites.

Wonton Mee with pork and plenty of chili sauce and hot peppers.

Forget the numbers. I read a lot of numbers prior to our trip that were supposed to tell me the location of a vendor within a hawker. About the only place this helped was at the frequently visited Lau Pa Sat. Otherwise, I never even saw the numbers on the vendor’s booths. They are difficult to find. Use this method if you choose, but we found it much easier to follow the lines if it is a popular place you are looking for. Otherwise, know what the food looks like or the name and give a random vendor a shot.

Know the schedules. While the numbers didn’t help us, hours of operation did. This is where a book like the Makansutra guide comes in handy. Some hawkers like the Maxwell Food Center cater more to the lunch crowd while you can get some foods at other hawkers like the one in Chinatown until late at night. Vendors also have different closing days and they can be random such as Tuesdays twice a month. If you have your heart set on trying a food find out the location and schedule of the specific vendor so you don’t miss out during your visit.

Ah Boling - Glutinous rice balls with fillings such as peanut, red bean paste or yam. We passed on the Durian.

Mee Chiang Kueh. Almost sold out when we returned after lunch so we only tried to coconut and peanut.

The articles, television shows and travel blogs don’t lie. Singapore is a food paradise. We enjoyed some of the most outstanding food we’ve ever had the opportunity to try. And it’s not just the food, but the experience surrounding it. Long lines, dumplings being rolled, oil splashing out of hot woks, food slapped quickly on a plate cooked to perfection – there is simply nothing like Singapore.

Rice fields in Ubud, Bali

Every time I hear one overhead or read the latest news about the industry on the web, I think about it. I think about expertly packing my backpack, ensuring I have my earplugs and sleeping mask. I think about being so exhausted I can barely stand and so irritated that I’m ready to run people over, yet content, original, unique and adventurous all at the same time.

I’m talking about airplanes. I’m also talking about the fact that I haven’t been on one in four months.

For someone who rarely travels these thoughts and feelings may sound odd. However, after three years of hopping on an international flight every few months, navigating the ins and outs of airports and airlines in your own country and those abroad, it feels like a part of me is missing.

It’s not that I’m unhappy. In fact, it’s exactly the opposite. We are now living back in the US. I’m cooking to my heart’s content in a beautiful kitchen, my husband gets home from work at 5:30 instead of 8:00, I’m growing a garden, I’m mowing a lawn – all things I enjoy, and things I missed terribly for three years. Yet, I am having a difficult time dealing with this travel drought.

I suppose most travelers come to this point during their adventures. Unless you are permanently on the road you must face this transition whether you’ve traveled around for a month or several years.

I balanced this state of being nicely before we moved abroad. I worked full-time, I traveled and explored, I enjoyed having a permanent home. However, after leaving that for an extended period, I find I’m a bit out of whack. The comforts of home sooth me, but the memories of being on the road have me worrying that I won’t feel that bliss of exploration again, even though my heart knows this isn’t true. Travel will always be a part of my life.

One of my biggest fears in all of this laying roots and staying grounded business is losing my sense of adventure. I fear getting too comfortable with the conveniences of daily life again, of being afraid to try a foreign food or eat from a roadside stand. I fear losing that toughness that allows one to take travel delays and culture shock in stride, the kind of toughness that is unique to hardcore travelers.

Instead of falling victim to these fears I’ve decided I need to figure out a way to face them and overcome them. To not let my brain tell me I’m going to turn into a local homebody when my heart knows this isn’t true. These are the ways I choose to overcome my fears and if you’ve ever been in a similar transition perhaps you can share how you face yours.

Celebrate the good in this transition. There are some good things about our transition back home, some very good things. I will focus on those things that aren’t material although I can’t hide my happiness with our washer and dryer and stove. I love growing our own food, we have our dog back with us, we see family and friends more often, and I look forward to long drives alone something I couldn’t do abroad.  

Explore my backyard. When traveling abroad it is easy to forget that the people and things in your own backyard are incredibly interesting. Local foods, festivals, restaurants, farmers and organizations have my full attention and I aim to learn much more.

Never stop researching. We may not have plans to travel anywhere until this December, but it doesn’t hurt to keep researching for the future. Trip planning thrills me. I love the challenge of finding the best deals and learning what to see and do. Although at moments it may seem like forever until I’ll get there, France, Italy and Austria will all still be going strong a year from now, I won’t miss out on much.

Keep reading and connecting. My expat life exposed me to a world of inspiring people who travel extensively and live their lives in places other than their home country. By reading the excellent content they provide and connecting with these individuals it helps me to feel like I am still a traveler.

And I AM still a traveler.

Laying down roots and exploring the world is like having your cake and eating it too. I intend to do both.

Cathedral in Maringá, PR

That is the number of days since we left expat life and extended travel adventures to begin the process of repatriation. A process that continues with a long awaited move into a house last weekend and reverse culture shock moments which seem to build instead of lessen. In these past days I have had zero motivation or inspiration to write about expat life or travel in general.

I think I’ve been a bit lost. Lost and trying to figure out where I now fit in.

During the days of living in another country I was comfortably in my little corner of the travel world filled with ideas and blogging away.

Now? Well, now I wonder what I have left to offer that someone might be interested in reading.

Over the past week I’ve been asked for advice from friends who are considering the same move we made to Brazil three years ago. In our conversations I’ve realized that this is the first time I’ve had the opportunity to go deeper in evaluating how I’ve changed and the overall impact of the adventure

I tend to downplay what I have to offer regarding my expatriate experience. I constantly compare myself and time abroad to the expat experiences of others. I think – I should have done that, I should have had a better grasp of the language, or I should have traveled to that city. I worry about over generalizing the culture I was in or offending someone.

As I’ve had time to reflect, and as I’ve been asked for numerous pieces of advice as of late, I’m realizing that I do have quite a bit to offer. Not just regarding expatriate life, but for travel and experiencing other cultures of the world.

The Museu da Inconfidência on Praça Tiradentes in Ouro Preto

Perhaps my advice will appeal to someone in the same position; someone who isn’t moving to a city where they will find ex-pat groups to buddy up with for support, or where English can be used for communication in public. Or perhaps it will be someone that never thought they’d be an expat yet find themselves on the edge, ready to take the jump.

For those people, this is what I learned living for 2 ½ years in Maringá, the third largest city in the southern state of Paraná, Brazil.

 It will change you.

Regardless of how content you are with who you are at this very moment, an expat experience will change you. You can hold on to your core values, your beliefs, but you will return a different person.

Whether these changes are good or bad will vary greatly on what traits you value. You may become more balanced or more stressed; more peaceful or more easily frustrated; more concerned or more apathetic.

When we moved I left a job where I was constantly looked to for advice in my field of study. I guided people’s work, gave presentations, taught classes and didn’t mind being the center of attention one bit. I was also hotheaded, firm in my beliefs (also read opinionated), structured in some aspects of my life and go-with-the-flow in others. I always strived to be accepting and respectful of others and their time, easy to work with and approachable. Although I’m not sure that always showed beneath the other aspects of my personality.

I returned a person who enjoys being alone, loves quiet as much as noise, preaches less and does more while trying to understand that everyone has their own way. I can sit for hours and stare at a field or ocean thinking about nothing and everything all at once. I appreciate efficiency and service more than ever. I’m a slow and quiet driver barely showing the signs of road rage I had three years ago. In other areas of my life I’m more easily frustrated, and on many subjects I’m downright apathetic. I now can’t stand to hear constant complaining and have a much more positive outlook on life overall.

To be honest, none of it makes any sense. I’m a hodgepodge of different feelings and emotions that come together to make this new me. Many changes I like, others I’m working on.

Capybera in Parque Barigui, Curitiba-PR

Prepare to feel unique.

If someone asked me what is the one thing I miss about expat life it would be uniqueness. It is a feeling that can’t be described to someone who hasn’t experienced it. It has nothing to do with titles, status, talents or looks, and isn’t a better-than-thou or condescending type of a feeling. It is an internal feeling that brightens your mood and makes you feel special even if you are only special to yourself. When you travel back home after living abroad and realize how comfortable you feel in a room where you don’t understand the language, how much less materialistic you are, how grateful you are for all you have, you feel unique. There is no other way to put it.

You will be that person.

I’ll never forget my first trip back to the States when my Dad was telling me how he and my brother encountered a person out in public who came to them speaking an Asian language apparently seeking directions. They had no idea how to communicate with him or how to help.

 I said, “Dad, that’s me.”

The person who couldn’t ask for what she wanted, who didn’t know where to go, who was giggled at by the girls behind the bread counter when she tried to order in Portuguese. I was that person. And if you move to a country where you don’t know the language, you will be that person too. It’s a humbling experience. Enjoy it and grow from it. You’ll never look at a person who doesn’t speak your language in your home country the same way again.

Farmer's Market in Curitiba-PR

Your level of acceptance will be tested.

I mentioned how accepting of other cultures and people I thought I was prior to our move, right? Notice I said thought. No amount of travel can prepare you for living in a new country, adjusting to local customs and having interactions with the people. You may think you are a big person like I thought I was; one who would never look down on another person or culture, or feel your way of doing things was superior.

Trust me, you will be tested. You may have your moments of being disgusted and hateful, and you may even feel embarrassed at things you said or did. Changing everything about yourself from what you eat, to how you cook, how you communicate and how you conduct day to day activities is challenging for anyone. You are bound to get frustrated. Acknowledge your shortcomings and ensure you grow from them so you can come out the other side as the accepting person you thought you were to begin with.

Visitor Information Center, Blumenau-SC

You can get all the advice in the world and it won’t change your experience.

Before moving, I received advice not to pass up any opportunity, to learn the language and to stay in the moment. When we set out for expat life I was bound and determined to follow every bit of this advice to enhance my experience. Some things I did, others I failed at and some I completely forgot about.

Moving abroad is an emotional experience and it can be difficult to simply adjust to daily life in general. What you do or don’t do has no relation to success or failures. You are you, and your expat experience will be different than that of anyone else.  Your life abroad will be both what you make it and what it was meant to be. Good, bad or indifferent the important thing is that you appreciate it and the person you have become because of it.

Maringá-PR, Brasil

What was it then?

As vague as this may seem I just didn’t get that hit-you-in-the-face, “this is Antigua!” feeling when we got there. Now that we’ve also been to Jamaica and St. Lucia, I couldn’t help but notice the lack of this pride and identity as my mind was assembling my very first impression.

On the drive to our resort I found myself wondering where the beautiful hillsides and mountains were. Not to mention wondering why our driver didn’t tell us one single thing about the island, something we’ve come to expect on our Caribbean vacations.

Despite all this, I wasn’t ready to give up on the little island just yet. I knew there was something special it had to offer that I was obviously missing.

As has become our rule for traveling to the islands, regardless of what hotel, house or resort you choose to stay at, get off it. Get out and explore, find something local, see and experience something not given to you by a trained service staff. We took our own advice, and we hired a local driver for a day.

Big Roger of Roger Taxi & Tours

Roger, from Roger’s Taxi & Tours, took us on the Then & Now Tour. We were given the opportunity to see the entire island in six hours (it’s only about 14 miles x 11 miles). In addition we got lessons in history, immersion into some of the local culture and the evidence that I had, in fact, been missing something special about Antigua.

 Yes, I know you can rent your own car. That is if you are familiar with, or brave enough, to drive on the left hand side of the road. That is one thing we haven’t chosen to tackle yet. And yes you can read all kinds of guide books that tell you about the island.

However, what you can’t get with these two options above is a friendly, welcoming Antiguan who has so many brothers and sisters on the island that he honked at one in almost every area we visited. You won’t get his brain either which is filled with more knowledge than you could ever find in a guide book.

My point? We are very happy with our decision to hire Roger for the day.

So what makes Antigua so special now that I’ve seen it through the eyes of a local? Do a few of these things on your visit and you will fully understand what changed my mind.

What to eat? Ducana and Caribbean rock lobster.

Ducana, salt fish and chop-up from Caribbean Taste

Ducana is a local dish of grated sweet potato, coconut, flour, sugar and spices which is wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. It’s like a tropical quick bread/ dumpling. Mine was served with salted cod in a red sauce and chop-up, a veggie combo with spinach.  We ate it at Caribbean Taste near English Harbour.

The local lunch menu at Caribbean Taste

Barbuda, the second half of the country known as Antigua and Barbuda, is a prime spot for Caribbean rock lobsters. These were much larger and more flavorful than any we’ve had in the Caribbean prior to this visit. There is nothing that can beat them grilled with butter and lime.

Grilled Caribbean Rock Lobster from Barefoot by the Sea, Sandals Grande Antiguan resort

What to drink? Wadadli.

The local pale lager is excellent. I’d highly suggest getting your fill while you are there. Wadadli was also the Amerindian word for the island of Antigua.

Which beach to see? Fryes Beach.

We saw many during our tour of the island, but my favorite was established early in the day. Fryes beach is located on the west coast of the island. Of course, the Caribbean is full of white sandy beaches and blue waters, but there was something about this place that took my breath away.

Fryes Beach, Antigua

Fryes Beach, Antigua

We were told that many trees lined the beach at one time, but a hurricane took them all down leaving them buried in the sand. Other storms have then passed and occasionally once buried driftwood will emerge only adding to the already beautiful scenery.

Which view to look for? Sleeping Indian.

You can see this from a different perspective at just about every point on the island. We saw it when out driving, but realized that the best view was from our hotel room on Dickenson Bay. The hills and valleys come together to look just like a sleeping person and is known locally as the Sleeping Indian.

View of the Sleeping Indian

What attraction is most worth a visit? Devil’s Bridge

If you see one thing in Antigua, this is my number one recommendation. This natural bridge truly shows you the power of the sea. While amazing to view, the entire atmosphere is incredibly somber as this is a place where many have committed suicide. The whole scene creates a sense of awe and appreciation as well as thoughtfulness for the souls that were lost in that spot.

Devil's Bridge, Antigua

The sea and coast near Devil's Bridge

 

 

 

What tropical fruits you are likely to see? I lost count after 15.

Having lived in Brazil, we are fortunate to have seen and tasted a number of tropical fruits. However, I’m not sure I’ve seen so many different kinds in one small area. We saw everything from custard apples to pomegranates to pomelo to mango to cashews. And don’t forget the Antiguan Black Pineapple. It will be the sweetest pineapple to ever touch your taste buds.

Custard apple tree near Caribbean Taste restaurant

Antiguan Black Pineapple at a roadside stand

 

 

 

What fun history fact to remember? Well protected from attack.

Antigua is considered the gateway to the Caribbean. Because of all the little inlets and coves it was fairly easy for the British to protect the island from French attack. Therefore, Antigua didn’t change hands like other island such as St. Lucia which went back and forth between French and British control.

View of English Harbour from Shirley Heights

Which animals you might encounter? Mongoose, sheep, goats and donkeys.

The mongoose was brought over from India to kill all the snakes on the island. I find that so incredible. Tropical island, no snakes at all. We did get the chance to see one (safely from the van), but were warned we would never want to have an actual encounter.

Mongoose from a distance (he's right in the center of the photo)

Sheep and goats roam the island eating at their leisure. You’ll find them resting on rocks and hills and likely trying to cross the road in herds. The donkeys, however, were much more interesting. I’m not quite sure I’ve ever seen a donkey on a rocky cliff next to the sea. These also happened to be the beautiful Bethlehem Donkeys with the signature cross along their back. It only added to my excitement that we were able to see a babe with its mama.

Donkey with baby grazing near Devil's Bridge

What not to overlook? The Antiguan flag.

The blue and white colors along with the sun represent the sea, sand and sunshine of the island. The black represents the African ancestry and the “v” shape represents victory, while the red stands for the energy of the people.

Resources to plan your trip:

Antigua and Barbuda Department of Tourism

Roger’s Taxi & Tours

268-764-6331

rogertaxitours (at) gmail (dot) com

Caribbean Taste

Behind Dockyard Drive

English Harbour

268-562-3049

I was tagged by one of my favorite foodie travel blogs The Road Forks. Akila originally tagged my food blog Fake Food Free where I do talk about travel, but I think this post is a better fit right here at The 3 Star Traveler. It is about time I get things rolling!

My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets

Ilha do Mel, Paraná, Brasil

Map of Ilha do Mel

When visiting Brazil, head south my friend. Past Recife, Bahia, Rio and Sao Paulo, all the way to the southern state of Paraná. Brazil is an incredibly diverse country; much more than I ever knew before living there the past two years. The south may lack the popular beaches and blue waters of the north, but it makes up for it in rich, diverse culture, amazing food and natural paradise.

Ilha do Mel (island of honey) is located about a 2.5 hour drive and 30 minute boat ride east of the capital city of Curitiba. An island free of motorized vehicles, this natural wonderland is by far one of the best kept secrets of the locals who live in the area. Beaches around the island are separated with rocks and vegetation just screaming to be hiked and climbed. I did just that on my 30^th birthday last year.

Beaches and trails on Ilha do Mel

There are plenty of beaches to relax on, but the island also has landmarks to visit such as a lighthouse, fort and ecological reserve if you choose to do a little hiking during your visit. When you get hungry stop at Toca do Abutre near Braslíia. Enjoy the view while you snack on camarão frito (fried shrimp), casquinha de siri (stuffed crab) and ice cold cerveja. Plan ahead if you travel there during the South American summer especially around Carnival time as there is a daily limit for the number of persons who can visit and stay on the island.

Patara Elephant Farm Chiang Mai, Thailand

One of the elephants we worked with during our visit.

Thailand is not without plenty of tours that involve elephants, but none of them are like what you will encounter when visiting the Patara Elephant Farm. Let’s just say you will be doing a bit more than patting them on the trunk and your ride won’t involve one of those saddles that look like it was pulled straight from the circus. 

 The farm’s web-site states, “Yes, we are different!” and that could not be more accurate. This Thai owned and managed farm focuses on health-care and breeding management to ensure that the Asian elephant does not become extinct. They act as a rescue organization as well, taking in those elephants that have been mistreated through their use as a tourist attraction on the streets of Thailand. The funds generated from visitors help keep the farm up and running. 

Scrubbing the tusks of my elephant, Boonpak

If you take advantage of the Elephant Owner for a Day program be ready to work. Your day will begin in the middle of a gorgeous rice paddy where you will hear a story about the importance of the elephant in Thailand and just how shockingly close this creature is to extinction. You’ll be assigned to a trainer who will be with you for the day and finally you get to meet your elephant.  

After feeding him or her and performing a daily health check, you’ll climb into the creek and give  the equivalent of a sponge bath. Next you are up, riding them bare back throughout the forests of northern Thailand. Up and down mountains, through clay-like mud and down primitive roadways. You’ll stop for lunch next to a creek while the elephants play in the water. Your feast will be some of the most traditional and authentic Thai foods you will likely have on your entire trip. Next you too can swim with your elephant and then you will be back up for a ride making your way to the farm.  

Elephants playing in the water during our lunch break

Our picnic lunch

The tour lasts an entire day from about 7:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. and is truly a life changing experience. I would, however, recommend a few things.  Do a couple weeks of core strengthening workouts to help your back during the ride (I’m really not kidding), wear bug spray and stay hydrated, but don’t drink too much as potty breaks are few and far between.

Experience Bali on the Morning Journey in Ubud

Many people go to Bali for the beaches, but having had plenty of beach on our Southeast Asia trip we chose to spend three nights in the arts and cultural center of Ubud. Yes, the center of the city is still highly touristy, but if you want to get a sneak peak of real life there make your way over to Tegal Sari and sign up for the Morning Journey. You can participate even if you aren’t staying at the hotel.

Inside the local art school, also a home compound

A mere 15 USD per person will enlighten you and inform you regarding the Balinese culture more than you ever thought possible. A local guide will take you to a village outside Ubud where you will visit many housing compounds including a local art school. There your new view of this amazing place will begin to form as you learn about the Hindu religion, cultural practices and local foods.

Speaking of local foods the second half of the experience involves a rather rugged hike through the rice terraces and forest. You’ll learn about rice production, identify fruit trees and may even get lucky enough to have a local farmer climb a massive palm tree barefoot to cut you a coconut for a mid-afternoon refreshment.

Rice terraces

Local farmer climbing for a coconut

The day lasts from about 9:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. and you’ll finish up with a lunch provided by the hotel. You’ll leave wishing you had a few more days to spend with these wonderful people learning more intimate things about their intriguing culture.

Now I have to tag five other travel bloggers (which also happen to be five of my favorite reads) to share their 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets.

On the Fringe - The life of Global Gal in China with notes of ex-pat experiences and travel adventures.

Rubber Slippers in Italy – The ex-pat stories and travel tales of Rowena from Hawaii as she takes on all Italy has to offer.

Chez Loulou – Entertaining stories, beautiful photos and a taste of life in the south of France from a U.S ex-pat perspective.

Gastroanthropology – The social science of food along with tales of travel and cooking from a U.S. ex-pat living in London.

Kyle Hepp (Just Married Chilean Style) - Beautiful photos and straight forward stories from a U.S. ex-pat living in Chile turned world traveler.