Seeing Antigua through the Eyes of a Local

Photos coming soon! When we re-launched The 3 Star Traveler we lost many of the original photos from posts. Lori is gradually working her way through past posts and uploading the photos once again. Check back soon!

When we first arrived on the island of Antigua I wasn’t sure I was going to like it. This wasn’t because of a lack of sunshine or the smell of sea water in the air. Both were readily available. It wasn’t even due to the incredibly long line for immigration in which we waited about an hour. (They pumped air conditioning through the room so I couldn’t complain.)

What was it then?

As vague as this may seem I just didn’t get that hit-you-in-the-face, “this is Antigua!” feeling when we got there. Now that we’ve also been to Jamaica and St. Lucia, I couldn’t help but notice the lack of this pride and identity as my mind was assembling my very first impression.

On the drive to our resort I found myself wondering where the beautiful hillsides and mountains were. Not to mention wondering why our driver didn’t tell us one single thing about the island, something we’ve come to expect on our Caribbean vacations.

Despite all this, I wasn’t ready to give up on the little island just yet. I knew there was something special it had to offer that I was obviously missing.

As has become our rule for traveling to the islands, regardless of what hotel, house or resort you choose to stay at, get off it. Get out and explore, find something local, see and experience something not given to you by a trained service staff. We took our own advice, and we hired a local driver for a day.

Roger, from Roger’s Taxi & Tours, took us on the Then & Now Tour. We were given the opportunity to see the entire island in six hours (it’s only about 14 miles x 11 miles). In addition we got lessons in history, immersion into some of the local culture and the evidence that I had, in fact, been missing something special about Antigua.

Yes, I know you can rent your own car. That is if you are familiar with, or brave enough, to drive on the left hand side of the road. That is one thing we haven’t chosen to tackle yet. And yes you can read all kinds of guide books that tell you about the island.

However, what you can’t get with these two options above is a friendly, welcoming Antiguan who has so many brothers and sisters on the island that he honked at one in almost every area we visited. You won’t get his brain either which is filled with more knowledge than you could ever find in a guide book.

My point? We are very happy with our decision to hire Roger for the day.

So what makes Antigua so special now that I’ve seen it through the eyes of a local? Do a few of these things on your visit and you will fully understand what changed my mind.

 

What to eat? Ducana and Caribbean rock lobster.

Ducana is a local dish of grated sweet potato, coconut, flour, sugar and spices which is wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. It’s like a tropical quick bread/ dumpling. Mine was served with salted cod in a red sauce and chop-up, a veggie combo with spinach.  We ate it at Caribbean Taste near English Harbour.

Barbuda, the second half of the country known as Antigua and Barbuda, is a prime spot for Caribbean rock lobsters. These were much larger and more flavorful than any we’ve had in the Caribbean prior to this visit. There is nothing that can beat them grilled with butter and lime.

 

What to drink? Wadadli.

The local pale lager is excellent. I’d highly suggest getting your fill while you are there. Wadadli was also the Amerindian word for the island of Antigua.

 

Which beach to see? Fryes Beach.

We saw many during our tour of the island, but my favorite was established early in the day. Fryes beach is located on the west coast of the island. Of course, the Caribbean is full of white sandy beaches and blue waters, but there was something about this place that took my breath away.

We were told that many trees lined the beach at one time, but a hurricane took them all down leaving them buried in the sand. Other storms have then passed and occasionally once buried driftwood will emerge only adding to the already beautiful scenery.

 

Which view to look for? Sleeping Indian.

You can see this from a different perspective at just about every point on the island. We saw it when out driving, but realized that the best view was from our hotel room on Dickenson Bay. The hills and valleys come together to look just like a sleeping person and is known locally as the Sleeping Indian.

 

What attraction is most worth a visit? Devil’s Bridge

If you see one thing in Antigua, this is my number one recommendation. This natural bridge truly shows you the power of the sea. While amazing to view, the entire atmosphere is incredibly somber as this is a place where many have committed suicide. The whole scene creates a sense of awe and appreciation as well as thoughtfulness for the souls that were lost in that spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What tropical fruits you are likely to see? I lost count after 15.

Having lived in Brazil, we are fortunate to have seen and tasted a number of tropical fruits. However, I’m not sure I’ve seen so many different kinds in one small area. We saw everything from custard apples to pomegranates to pomelo to mango to cashews. And don’t forget the Antiguan Black Pineapple. It will be the sweetest pineapple to ever touch your taste buds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What fun history fact to remember? Well protected from attack.

Antigua is considered the gateway to the Caribbean. Because of all the little inlets and coves it was fairly easy for the British to protect the island from French attack. Therefore, Antigua didn’t change hands like other island such as St. Lucia which went back and forth between French and British control.

 

Which animals you might encounter? Mongoose, sheep, goats and donkeys.

The mongoose was brought over from India to kill all the snakes on the island. I find that so incredible. Tropical island, no snakes at all. We did get the chance to see one (safely from the van), but were warned we would never want to have an actual encounter.

Sheep and goats roam the island eating at their leisure. You’ll find them resting on rocks and hills and likely trying to cross the road in herds. The donkeys, however, were much more interesting. I’m not quite sure I’ve ever seen a donkey on a rocky cliff next to the sea. These also happened to be the beautiful Bethlehem Donkeys with the signature cross along their back. It only added to my excitement that we were able to see a babe with its mama.

 

What not to overlook? The Antiguan flag.

The blue and white colors along with the sun represent the sea, sand and sunshine of the island. The black represents the African ancestry and the “v” shape represents victory, while the red stands for the energy of the people.

 

Resources to plan your trip:

Antigua and Barbuda Department of Tourism

Roger’s Taxi & Tours

268-764-6331

rogertaxitours (at) gmail (dot) com

Caribbean Taste

Behind Dockyard Drive

English Harbour

268-562-3049